The “pocket square”, “pochette square” or “pocket handkerchief”: a history of colors, styles and fabrics

With the term “pocket square” or “handkerchief” (also known as “pochette” or “pochette square” in continental Europe), we refer to the well-known square piece of cloth that men usually wear inside their suit’s chest pocket. This accessory, a classic element of most ceremonial and formal outfits, has a long history, spanning more than 300 years.

The habit of carrying around a pocket square is ancient: according to some historians, the birth of this custom can be found in ancient Egypt and Greece, where the wealthiest members of society carried a square of white linen around to use as a handkerchief. In rare occasions, only the luckiest could pride themselves in owning precious handkerchiefs made with silks imported from China. The handkerchief was kept as a habitual component of one’s outfit even through the Middle Ages; often, the cloth was scented with aromas in order to keep at bay some of the foul odors coming into the streets from everywhere in the city. In the late XIV century, king Richard II popularized the usage of the pocket handkerchief not only in simple solid colors but in capricious patterns completed with luxurious gold and silver accents.

In the modern age, the pocket square defines itself as a vital element of a man’s outfit. Initially carreid in one’s trousers’ pockets, it was eventually transferred to a man’s jacket’s chest pocket. After a short going out of style during the 60s, pocket squares came back as a trendy Men’s fashion object that still persists in the most formal and sophisticated outfits of today.

Does a pocket square have to be coordinated? Colors, materials, styles

First and foremost, a pocket square is an accessory designed to draw attention, and, as such, it is best made with high quality materials as to not downgrade your general outfit.

However, this doesn’t mean it needs to match your suspenders, or belt, or bow tie, or necktie. A pocket square’s colors can be played with, and this element can also be used to draw attention to other, finer details of your outfit that would not otherwise be easily noticed.

There are still some rules that one can follow when considering adding a pocket square to their outfit: for example, solid colors, whether they are on cotton or linen, work better together with jackets of the same material for a less formal look.

Formal or ceremonial outfits usually require the addition of a silk pocket square. The best color matches for a more elegant look are the universally adaptable white pocket square or a fine dotted pattern; alternatively, one can also be a little more daring with striped patterns or a flowery decoration, all rigorously in silk.

Fashion tips for your pocket square

Men’s pocket squares can be matched with both bow ties and neckties. They can also be sported together with both waistcoats and sweaters, with casual jackets as well as three-piece suits. There is almost no limit to the number of matches that can be made between pocket squares and Men’s outfits.

For the most attentive to details, a nice tip is to match your pocket square with the color of your socks.

If you want to really complete a formal and sophisticated look, you can decide to match your pocket square with suspenders with mustache and button clips.

Finally, for an easier to wear casual outfit, you can match a white linen with blue accents pocket square with a braided elastic stretch belt with leather buckle. You will be sure to impress!

How to fold your pocket square: basic rules for a perfect style!

There are dozens different styles of folding your pocket square, each telling a story, each ideal for a specific mood, style or personality. Look into the mirror, try out different ways of folding it and find your unique combination!

In order to help you make a choice, let us list some of the simpler and most effective ways to nicely fold a pocket square.

The Presidential fold: the most classic and simplest way to fold a pocket square. It only requires folding it in half until it fits your jacket pocket.

The Puff fold: it’s a bolder and slightly chaotic kind of fold. It is obtained by pinching the pocket square in its center, then passing it through a circle made of the index and thumb of your other hand up to its mid-length. Per farla si posa la pochette sul tavolo e la si pizzica al centro con indice e pollice. Finally, fold the bottom of the handkerchief upwards and insert it in your jacket pocket.

The Three point Crown fold: resembling a triple triangle or a crown, it’s the most sophisticated type of fold out of the ones listed. Lay your pocket square on your table in a diamond position. Fold it in half from the bottom up, then pick the left and right angles and fold them up towards the center. That way you will get a “crown” shape that you can insert in your jacket pocket.

Pocket squares at weddings: never be without one!

A wedding outfit cannot be truly complete without a beautiful pocket square. For formal events and celebrations such as wedding, Men’s outfits are usually relatively dark and monochromatic. The most common colors are navy, light blue and grey: with color combinations in these hues, it is essential for a pocket square to give some light to the overall outfit – for example, white silk and pearl-white silk can be ideal to meet this goal. A colorful or patterned pocket square can also be chosen by the groom to mirror the colors of the bride’s dress. È possibile anche indossare una pochette colorata per richiamare il colore dell’abito della sposa o il colore scelto per il matrimonio. Red pocket squares are also a fashionable and common choice among elegant grooms and best men for their most trendy wedding outfits.

Find your perfect pocket square in our online store

Men’s pocket squares come in many different sizes, patterns and fabrics, even though the shape is the same: always rigorously square.

For your personal pocket square, BRUCLE offers a standard measure of 31x31 cm (12x12 in), a versatile middle size that can easily fit in with every outfit.

As for the materials, BRUCLE Men’s pocket squares are realized with only natural fabrics and avoids synthetic ones. Among our fabrics, cotton and linen are the most suited for warmer weathers and more informal social situations.

High quality, 100% handmade in Italy silk coming from the best Como manifactures is our material of choice for pocket squares to add to your formal outfits: their softness and luminosity are ideal to add a touch of elegance to your style. Silk pocket squares can come with twill or jacquard details. The latter makes for a less soft and stiffer pocket square that will, however, surely keep its folded shape for longer times.

Handmade pocket squares: the artistry is in the details

Fabrics for a pocket square can be processed and decorated in many different ways. For a truly elegant one, though, the best choice is a fabric that is hand decorated, as the artisanal quality of the ornament makes it more precious and unique.

How to wash and care for your pocket square

A pocket square can be easily cleaned in the case some stains get on it; however, there are some rules to follow for your pocket square to have a longer life.

Firstly, it is always advisable to dry clean your handkerchief, as fine silk may lose some of its beauty in the washing machine.

If your pocket square seems to be all crumpled after many usages, you may delicately iron it. We advise you not to put the hot iron directly to the silk, but to instead put a lightly moistened piece of cloth between the pocket square and the iron. Many modern irons do have a silk program, but it is always wise to try the setting on a smaller area of your pocket square before attempting ironing the entire fabric with it.